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Night Photography

DSLR camera settings and tips for taking city landscapes at night

One of the reasons enthusiasts purchase SLR digital cameras, is to take night photographs in and around the city without them resulting in blurred or shaky images. However, as you'll soon find out, it's not as easy as setting your digital camera to automatic and shooting the image. Listed below are tips that will help you take city landscape photographs after dark.

Digital SLR settings for night photography

1. Set your camera to shutter priority. On a Canon DSLR you turn the top dial to TV. Whereas on some SLR models, like the Nikon D40 for example, shutter priority is displayed as the letter S. If your camera doesn't have TV or S then refer to your camera manual.
   
   
   
   
   
2. If you have a tripod handy, set the ISO to the lowest setting your camera will go. For example, Canon EOS 400D will go as low as 100 ISO, whereas a Nikon D40 will go to 200. If you don't have a tripod, look for something you can rest your camera on. For example a stone or brick wall.
   
   If you absolutely need to hand hold your camera, the only choice of SLR settings you have for night photography is to set it to P (Program) and up the ISO to 800 - 1600. You can then skip over step 3 below. Note: This usually isn't recommended for high quality night shots.
   
   
3. For high quality night shots, the shutter needs to be set at a slow speed. This allows the camera enough time to let light in to the sensor, without increasing your ISO setting. How slow depends on the time of night and how dark it is. There is no set shutter speed to suit every situation. However I've found if you take one photograph at 10 seconds, one at 20 and one at 30. Then view the image on your LCD display and see which one shows the most light. From there you will be able to judge how slow the shutter speed needs to be for the rest of your photo's on that particular night.
   
   The mistake many photographers do, is to set their shutter speed too fast. For example the night shot below was taken with a one second shutter. As you can see, this wasn't long enough to allow the light in to the camera's sensor.
   
   
   
   I recognised this instantly and reshot the photograph using a slower shutter speed of 15 seconds. This time the SLR camera was given more time to allow the light in to the sensor, resulting in a clearly focused night shot that you can see below.
   
   
   

   Mackay Harbour Marina Australia Camera: Canon EOS 400D / Rebel XTi Lens: Canon EF-S17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Exposure: 15 sec (15) Aperture: f/5 Focal Length: 33 mm ISO Speed: 100 Exposure Program: Shutter priority Flash: Flash did not fire Why this night shot worked The shutter speed was set to a slow 15 seconds. Therefore I was able to keep the ISO set to a high quality 100. Of course shooting at such a slow speed also required a sturdy tripod. You won't be able to hand hold a digital camera for 15 seconds without shaking. If you don't have a tripod handy, the other option is to up the ISO to 800 or 1600, then keep the shutter speed fast. However, the quality of the night shot will be grainy or noisy, and is usually not recommended.

   
   
   
   Here is another example of a night photograph, this time the shutter speed is 30 seconds.
   
   

   Sydney Australia Camera: Canon EOS 400D / Rebel XTi Lens: Canon EF-S17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Exposure: 30 sec (30) Aperture: f/7.1 Focal Length: 17mm ISO Speed: 100 Exposure Program: Shutter priority Flash: Flash did not fire Why this night shot worked The ISO was kept to a high image quality 100, while the shutter speed set to a slow 30 seconds. The night photograph was taken from a 260 meter-high Sydney Lookout Tower where tripods were forbidden. Therefore I sat my SLR camera on a binocular stand.

   
   
   

Where to focus for night photography?

A frequently asked question beginners often ask is, where should they focus for night shots. Personally, I get better results if I focus on a far object in the distance. This should ensure your camera automatically sets the aperture to capture the whole scene in focus and not just closer objects.

Manual mode setting

Tips for manual mode camera settings

Using your DSLR camera in fully manual mode (M on the top dial), isn't as hard as it first seems. Whether you own a Canon, Nikon, or any other SLR camera brand, using manual mode works basically the same.

Advantages of fully manual

• Manual mode allows you to set both your aperture and shutter speed separately, without the camera automatically changing the other to suit. With this in mind, you can be more creative with your shots. For example, you can photograph a beach landscape keeping the aperture high (for example f/22) so everything is in focus, yet at the same time set a slow shutter speed to create dreamy, slow motion waves.
  
  

  Example of photograph taken in fully manual settings Camera: Canon EOS 400D / Rebel XTi Lens: Canon EF-S17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Exposure: 0.2 sec (1/5) Aperture: f/22 Focal Length: 85 mm ISO Speed: 100 Exposure Program: Manual Flash: Flash did not fire Why this shot worked For this beach landscape, I wanted the whole scene from the sand in the foreground, to the island and boat in the background to be fully in focus. I also intended for the ocean waves to have a slow motion dreamy look and feel to them. For this to be achieved, the camera needed to be set on a high aperture f/22, and a relatively slow shutter speed of 1/5th of a second. If I had set the camera to aperture priority, then the shutter speed would have been automatically created for me, or conversely if I'd set shutter priority, the camera would have automatically set the aperture to suit. Therefore, setting the camera on manual mode, allowed me to fully choose both the aperture and the shutter speed.

  
  
  
  
• Manual mode gives you full control over your exposure. If you are finding a lot of your photographs are either underexposed (too dark) or overexposed (too light) then working in fully manual mode will help you to better understand and correct these exposure problems. Personally, I've found tweaking exposure results in photographs that are much more colorful than those taken in other modes.
  

How to use manual mode?

• Firstly set your camera's top dial to the M mode and turn it on.
  
  Example of manual mode:
  
  
  
  
• To set the shutter speed, turn the rotating dial that looks like this:
  
  
  
  
  
  
• To set the aperture (f/number), press and hold down the exposure compensation button while turning the rotating dial.
  
  The exposure compensation button looks like this:
  
  
  
  
  
  
• To set the exposure, look through your viewfinder and press the shutter button half way down to focus on an object or scenery. You will then notice at the bottom of the screen what is referred to as a light meter, that looks similar to this:
  
  
  
  For this example, turn the rotating dial again until this exposure line shows 0 exposure. That is, it is neither on the right or left side, but rather set in the middle. If you don't like looking through the viewfinder, you should also be able to see this exposure line on the back LCD display. Take the shot and you'll find a well balanced exposure.
  

Other tips and hints for using your SLR camera in manual mode

• You will notice when you change the exposure level as demonstrated in the last tip, the shutter speed also changed to suit that particular exposure. You can however set the camera so it's the aperture that changes to suit the required exposure instead. To do this, press the exposure compensation button down while turning the rotator to the correct exposure. This way it will be the aperture that is changed and not the shutter speed.
  
  Therefore, before setting the correct exposure, it's important that you ask yourself which setting is more important to keep for your specific shot. Is the aperture more important or the shutter speed? If you're shooting a landscape, then I recommend keeping the aperture (f/number) as you had originally set it to. If you are photographing a moving object like a bird for example, then I recommend keeping the shutter speed setting.

Online Photography Course

One of the most important steps for taking photographs in manual (M mode), is understanding how to achieve a good exposure.

Assignment: Step by step lesson to help you fully understand manual mode exposure

• Change your camera setting to manual (M) mode and turn it on.
• Press and hold down the exposure compensation button while turning the rotating dial until the aperture is the lowest f number it can go. You will be able to see this on the back LCD display. For example:
  
  
  
  Note: The only reason I've instructed you to change to a low F number is to ensure the image is taken quickly, even if shot inside.
  
  
• Look through your viewfinder and point your camera at a nearby object or person. Press the shutter button half way down to focus, then lift up again. Don't yet take the shot.
  
  
• Still looking through your viewfinder, look for the exposure line along the bottom. Turn the rotating dial until that exposure line is set directly in the middle (on 0).
  
  
  
  
• Now take the photograph. This should result in an image that is not too underexposed and not too overexposed. If you find the camera took too long to shoot the photograph, increase your ISO to 400 or 800 and try again.
  
  
• Repeat the lesson again, this time going outside and taking an image of your street. However, for this example, firstly set the aperture to f/11. This will ensure everything is in focus.
  
  
• While your taking photographs of your street, try setting the exposure off center. You'll notice a few notches to the right and left of middle, will result in over and under exposure (too light or too dark).

This lesson helps demonstrate the importance of the exposure line when photographing in manual mode.

White Balance

What is white balance?

Setting the correct white balance in your camera, is important to ensure the objects that are white, are actually displayed white within the photograph. As you can see by the interactive example below, white balance also effects other colors as well. If your camera's automatic white balance setting doesn't get the color 'white' correct, it won't render the other colors correctly either.

Click within the square below to start the demonstration. Then click each of the four white balance settings to see how color is effected by this setting.

How to know if the wrong white balance has been set?

Just about every photographer at one stage or another, has taken a photograph that contained a blueish tinge. The blueish tinge is normally a result of using an incorrect white balance. For example, the first image below has a blueish tinge, where as the second shot displays a more natural coloring.

Setting an incorrect white balance, can also result in unsightly reds, yellow or green tinges as well, depending on the situation.

Doesn't auto white balance fix this problem?

Not always. While it's true many improvements have been made in todays digital camera's, they still often get white balance settings wrong in certain lighting conditions. If you take your images in RAW format (highly recommended) then sure, go ahead and use auto white balance. If the camera gets it wrong, you can always change this setting later on in your RAW editor.

Where to find your camera's white balance settings?

For Canon users, the camera's white balance setting can be found on the back panel next to the LCD screen (on Canon 400D). It can be recognised by the letters WB, as demonstrated in the image below. There can be slight differences between models, so if you can't see the letters WB, then check with your camera's manual. Press the WB button and you'll be given a list of the following options: auto, daylight, shade, cloudy, tungsten light, white fluorescent light, flash and custom.

For Nikon users, press the menu button on the back near the LCD screen, and navigate your way to the 'Shooting Menu'. From there, you'll be able to choose 'White Balance'. Once you're in the white balance screen you'll have several options including: auto, incandescent, tungsten, fluorescent, direct sunlight, flash, cloudy, shade and preset.

Note: If you have the camera set on fully automatic, you won't be able to choose a white balance setting.

Quick explaination of each white balance setting

Note once again, settings differ between brands and models. Therefore don't worry if you have a few of them missing from your menu bar.

When to use Auto white balance: In auto, the camera guesses what white balance to use depending on the available light. In 95% of the time, the guess results in a nicely colored photograph. This is a perfect setting for times when you're unsure what white balance to choose. It's also a good idea to keep the camera on Auto white balance if you shoot in RAW format (recommended).

Daylight (Canon) and Direct Sunlight (Nikon): This is a good setting for direct sunlight. For example, a beach landscape mid morning where you're not shooting into shade.

When to use Shade white balance: Use shade white balance in shady area's or sunset shots. It will help give a warmer color to your shots.

When to use Cloudy: This is a good setting for cloudy days. It's also quite effective for shady area's as well. I've found there is a fine line between shade and cloudy white balance settings.

When to use Tungsten white balance: This is one of the most extreme balance settings of them all and should only be used with tungsten light bulbs. Or at times where you purposefully want a blue tinge to your images.

When to use fluorescent: This setting will help make inside flourescent house lighting, look a bit better than the yellowy orange color you usually see.

Flash white balance: Flash white balance is used mostly for studio work.

Custom (Canon) and Preset (Nikon) white balance settings: Use these ones with a white or grey card that you can pick up cheaply from any camera store, for perfect white balance

Exposure tips

How to manually change your camera's exposure settings?

Many beginners often find their photographs are either underexposed (too dark) or overexposed (too light or white). However, there is a way to manually change the exposure to compensate for them being darker or lighter. Getting the correct exposure balance isn't as hard as it first seems, once you learn a few simple skills from the tips listed below.

Where is the exposure compensation button?

On both Nikon and Canon digital SLR camera's, the exposure compensation button looks like a plus and minus sign (+/-). On a Nikon D40, this is situated near the shutter button. For Canon 400D it is found upper right to the LCD screen on the back of the camera.

Example of exposure compensation button:

How to use the exposure compensation button?

• The exposure compensation button can be used when your camera is in any non-automatic mode. For example, you can use it while your top dial is on P (for program), S (Nikon shutter priority), TV (Canon shutter priority), A or AV (aperture priority) and M (fully manual) modes.
  
  
• For this exercise, put your camera on the P mode and take one photograph. Now take a second photograph, this time firstly pressing the shutter button half way down to focus (lift up again), then hold down the +/- compensation button, while turning the main dial to the right 4 stops and shoot. Now look at both images one after another in the LCD screen and you should notice a difference in the lighting.
  
  Shown below is an example of what the main dial looks like:
  
  
  
  Now repeat this exercise, this time when taking the 2nd photograph, hold down the compensation button down and turn the main dial 4 stops to the left. Note: it won't need to always be 4 stops, this is an example to show extremes only.
  
  What you should be seeing is a series of photographs, one too dark, one just right and one too light, like the example below:

• If you own a Nikon SLR camera, turning the main dial to the left (while holding down the exposure compensation button) will lighten the image. Whereas turning it to the right will darken the image for the next shot taken. You need to readjust it for each photograph.
  
  If you own a Canon SLR camera, it is the opposite to the Nikon. Turning your main dial to the left (while holding down the exposure compensation button) will darken the image and turning it to the right will lighten the image.
  
  

When is exposure compensation useful?

• If at first, you take an image and it looks to be too dark or too light when viewing it in your LCD screen. For example if it is early morning or late evening, you might want the photograph to appear lighter (or darker) than it actually is.
  
  
• If you are taking a photograph of an object that is in actual fact too dark, and you want to lighten it. For example if you were taking an image of the underside of a car near the tyre. Bad example I know :) Or lets say you want to photograph a black bird and need to see the actual eye in your image. In this case you could slightly over expose the image to bring out the patterns and shapes.
  
  
• In contrast, snow images can appear too over exposed. In these situations it's recommended to underexpose the image until you see a nice balance between the sky and the snow.
  
  
• Exposure compensation is also useful for those people that photograph objects in a light tent. A light tent is a square box that has numerous colored backgrounds so photographers can capture products and objects with one background color. For example, if a white background is used and you don't change the exposure compensation, the background may appear off white.
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imple green rule for exposing shots taken near nature

Whenever you take a photograph in or around nature, it's useful to expose on any part of the scene that is green, then underexpose it by two thirds.

For example, for the photograph below, the exposure was taken from the green leaves to the left of the flowers. I then underexposed the shot by 2/3, refocused on the flower and took the shot. As the camera was set on manual, the shutter speed (exposure) stayed as it was when exposed on the green leaves. Usually when you refocus on the subject you want to take a photo of, the camera will tell you the exposure is wrong. Ignore this and take the shot anyway. In most cases, it will result in a nicely exposed, detailed photograph.

If you're not sure what I am referring to by 'setting the exposure', you can find a good article on this at: Advantages of manual settings.

Note, this exposure tip will also work when you have your camera set on shutter priority. However, it won't work for automatic modes (such as landscape, portrait) or aperture priority, as the camera then sets the shutter speed for you.

Exposing Flower Gardens Camera: Canon EOS 400D / Rebel XTi Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro Shutter Speed (exposure): 0.005 sec (1/200) Aperture: f/11 Focal Length: 100mm ISO Speed: 200 Exposure Program: manual Tip for exposure The camera was set on manual mode with an aperture of f/11. I focused on the green leaves that had similar light falling on them as the flowers and underexposed by two third's. Next I focused on the purple flower and took the shot (without re-exposing). As you can see, this resulted in beautifully colored photo with a nice balance between light and shade.

Exposure tip for black subjects like birds Camera: Canon EOS 400D / Rebel XTi Lens: Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Shutter Speed (exposure): 0.002 sec (1/500) Aperture: f/5.6 Focal Length: 300mm ISO Speed: 400 Exposure Program: manual Tip for exposure Taking the exposure on something that is green, is particularly useful in times where the subject is black. If the shot above was exposed on the black bird, the details on the feathers and the green eye would have been lost. Instead, the photographer took the exposure on the nearby grass and then underexposed it by 2/3'rds.

Another time this exposure tip was useful, was during an outside photo shoot of my son. The first shot I'd taken was exposed on my son's face. Looking back on the LCD screen, I'd found there was a dark shadow over one side of his face. The shot was taken again, this time exposing (-2/3) on the green grass next to him. This helped to eliminate the shadow on his face.

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